“Nothing Is Authentic”: The Backlash Against H&M’s Digital Doppelgangers
- H&M plans to create 30 AI-generated digital clones of its models for marketing purposes, sparking controversy over job losses and authenticity.
- The company claims models will retain rights and be compensated for the use of their digital replicas, but critics argue it’s a slippery slope towards a “dead Internet” of inauthentic content.
- H&M is not alone in exploring AI for marketing, as other fashion brands like Hugo Boss, Levi’s, and Mango have also experimented with generative AI in their campaigns.
In a move that has ignited a firestorm of criticism, fast fashion giant H&M recently announced its plans to create digital clones of its models using artificial intelligence (AI) tools. The Swedish company intends to initially create 30 AI doppelgangers to be used in social media posts and marketing campaigns, replacing real human models. While H&M claims that the models will retain rights over their digital replicas and be compensated for their use, the backlash has been swift and fierce.
The announcement has sparked concerns about the potential loss of jobs for the hundreds of workers involved in traditional product photoshoots, from models and photographers to agents and other crew members. Social media users have been vocal in their opposition, with one user questioning, “I’m sorry, are any of the models, photographers, agents, and consumers going to be happy with this?” Another user lamented the rise of the “AI ‘dead Internet’ theory,” suggesting that the proliferation of AI-generated content will erode the authenticity of online experiences. A third user expressed disgust at the move, calling it a “classic AI move” that helps them identify “garbage corporations.”
H&M’s chief creative officer, Jorgen Andersson, defended the company’s decision, stating, “We are curious to explore how to showcase our fashion in new creative ways – and embrace the benefits of new technology – while staying true to our commitment to personal style.” The company also plans to include a watermark on its social media posts to disclose the use of generative AI, in line with the requirements of platforms like Instagram and TikTok.
However, H&M is not the first fashion brand to explore the use of AI in its marketing campaigns. Hugo Boss and Levi Strauss & Co have previously discussed using generative AI for product images. In 2023, Levi’s announced a trial of AI-generated model images as a way to “increase diversity,” but faced criticism and later clarified that it would not scale back live photoshoots with models. Similarly, Spanish brand Mango launched an entirely AI-generated campaign in July of last year to promote a new collection of its youth range.
The controversy surrounding H&M’s AI model clones raises broader questions about the role of technology in the fashion industry and the potential consequences for workers and consumers. While the company claims to be committed to personal style and authenticity, critics argue that the use of AI-generated models is a step too far, threatening the livelihoods of those involved in traditional photoshoots and contributing to the erosion of trust in online content. As the debate continues, it remains to be seen whether H&M’s experiment with AI will be a harbinger of things to come or a cautionary tale for the industry.